25 Comments

  1. Joe, great presentation. You're a good salesman! There are a few things wrong with your presentation, the most important of all is river behind you which is not for french nymphing! You french nymph in crystal clear streams max depth 4' depth.

  2. I tend to run the heavier fly off of the tag on the surg knot. with an unweighted nymph off the main tippet. I find it tangles less and it seems to yeild more hits. at leaste here in nevada on the truckee. usually a 12-14 jig head attractor pattern with a sow bug or weightless hares ear trailing. caddis pupa kill it sometimes also unweighted. I try to give the fish two options between attractor and imitation and mabey adjust my duo accordingly throughout the day. I too was an avid indicator fisherman when it came to nymphing and once i read some of Lance Eagan and George Daniel's material on euro nymphing I have never turned back except for some stillwater situations. building some taper into your leader can help with the "flick" at the end of your drift. Rio makes some good sighter material for the bottom end as well. I do like the darcon idea. drag comes to mind though. great video as always!!

  3. A mix of euro nymphing and wet fly technique I learned from Slovak guide: bottom fly – medium size nymph. middle fly – smaller nymph (often – micronymph ) , and top fly – soft hackle / spider style wet fly. He cast the whole thing upstream, lead with the hand, and when rig passes by, lowers the hand , so in the end rod is low and almost parallel to the water. So it continues as "classic wet fly swing" in the lower quarter, and flies go up in the water column, mimicking emergers going to the surface. Fish both can take nymph and wet fly, and often in the end of the swing it prefers wet fly. He uses very lightweight nymphs, so its technique good only for low water or shallow riffles, where depth is below the knee level

  4. Set up is good for that big slow flowing no trees in the way very good. But rappits deep flowing water where ever thing is moving so fast and you can't wade in the water no way. I seen a USA man he used mono he used a sticky pad as a float I used the double sided sticky pad it's match river to deep but it moves very fast cast I could not get it to where I wanted it to it match rivers are heigh. So this sticky pad I had for sticking up what ever in most hardwares or pound or doller shops had my weight at the very bottom of line split shot scud about 6 inches above that them my other fly then up to the sticky pad. An I had to fish off of low bridge. Waters to heigh. Not ever river is perfect for your set up. Some are deep grooves fuck all pebble. I'm lucky I have this kind of river near me. I'll send on a link to my kind of fishing

  5. Joe… There are some flaws in your presentation: 1. Your slighter is too long 2. The 4 weight fly rod is too heavy, you may want to switch to 3 weight ESN? 3. The depth and width of the river does not allow for euro-nymphing. Euro-nymphing is done in 3 to 5 feet of depth and more in a stream than in a river 4. you may trim the connection between your sighter.

  6. You're on the right track! I was where you are about 3 years ago. Since I’ve forked out the cash to take courses from world champions from Europe.
    Some tips if I may.
    The reason you can't catch fish from far is your leader is way, way, way to heavy. Which in turn forces you to use a super heavy fly to toss them far. Once you've tossed the fly 2 rod lengths away, they start to sink because they are too heavy. You find yourself having to pull them up, and consequently towards you to keep em off the bottom. That’s not a dead drift, and the fish don’t’ want that (most of the time).
    The only way you can get a dead drift with such a heavy setup is directly under the rod tip. And even then your leader is to thick and you’re not getting a dead drift.
    1. The entire leader should be no more than 5x. With either 6x or 7x as tippet. (you're gonna have to ebay that rod and get a 2wt hanak/maxia)
    2. Ditch the flies for perdigons (Spanish for pellet) carry them in 2mm, 2.8mm, 3.5mm and 4mm tungsten beads. Use what is appropriate for the water you’re fishing. The water close behind you should be fished with 2mm or 2.8mm. All the way to that seam. You’ll need heavier once you hit the seam.
    Hope this helps!
    Look how far away he’s nymphing, it’s because he has an ultra light setup.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSbLhl56R9w

  7. Great video. You explain things really well, for example how to spell "sighter." That took me a bit to first understand what was being said, then spell it. I started euro nymphing last year in Norway (only there they just call it "nymphing" 🙂 and I surprisingly caught fish. I like how with no indicator you keep in contact with your flies the whole time and how you don't have to keep messing with an indicator to change depths, you just do it with your rod tip. I'm working on my set up now – why a 3 wt vs. a 4 wt? I'm going to go with a 10' or 10'6" rod. Thanks!

  8. Make your own sighter using orange or pink fluro carbon line.

    Always make sure you use fluro tippet for the bottom nymph and mono with a light coat of line flotant on the top nymph.

  9. joe. you're freakin awesome. love love this video. bring it ! ( I fish for trout in western North Carolina. I hope I can get out to your shop one of these days, and no, this is not my name. ha ha. ). reds videos the best.

  10. Have you tried lighter leader and sighted material? Can't say I've ever felt the need or perceived any benefit from using heavy leader butts or sighter material for tight line rigs. I'm running a shorter 20lb but, then a long length of 12lb or so fluoro to a 8-12lb piece of sighter. Finishing off with tipped to suit. I think the lighter materials allow me to get down and controll drifts easier. Also, I think mono sighter material is a better choice than backing due to thinner diameters having less water resistance.

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